A compelling look at the aesthetic and historical significance of Lagerfeld's work-from his elegantly tailored pieces for Chanel to the witty, playful ensembles that came to define the Lagerfeld brand This publication is the first to present an insightful overview of Karl Lagerfeld's (1933-2019) artistry across his extraordinary 65-year career as a fashion designer and creative visionary-from early work for Balmain and Patou in the 1950s and designs for Chloe and Fendi in the 1960s and 1970s, to his celebrated leadership in the 1980s and beyond at Chanel and with his own label. Inspired by the "line of beauty" theorized by the eighteenth-century English painter William Hogarth, this dazzling publication pursues four "lines"-straight, serpentine, satirical, and explosive-as a means of defining Lagerfeld's unique creative process. An introductory text uses these concepts to explore such topics as the masculine-perceived art of tailoring, the traditionally feminine art of dressmaking, Lagerfeld's use of irony and parody, and the way these three modes converge in surprising, disruptive, and innovative ways. Thematic chapters illustrating the dualities in Lagerfeld's work, an illustrated timeline of his career, and reminiscences from the designer's friends and colleagues accompany new photography of 155 garments, as well as Lagerfeld's illustrations, material samples, personal photographs, and drawings, many never before published.
Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press Exhibition Schedule:
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (May 5-July 16, 2023).
Cette publication vibrante donne vie à quatre siècles de vêtements et d'accessoires extraordinaires inspirés par le monde naturel. Sleeping Beauties : Reawakening Fashion explore la relation complexe du vêtement avec le corps à travers les sens, offrant de nouvelles façons de comprendre et d'expérimenter l'art inhérent d'un vêtement. Des textes captivants rédigés par des universitaires, des scientifiques et des conservateurs révèlent l'histoire de plus de 200 oeuvres de mode tout en abordant leur fragilité et leur caractère éphémère. De nouvelles photographies exceptionnelles de Nick Knight de créations de couturiers et de maisons de design internationaux, dont Cristòbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Collina Strada, Christian Dior, Gucci, Charles James, LOEWE, Madame Grès, Thebe Magugu, Maison Margiela, Alexander McQueen, Issey Miyake, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa Schiaparelli, Bea Szenfeld, Philip Treacy, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton et Charles Frederick Worth - approfondit notre appréciation de l'intégrité sensorielle de chaque objet.
Exploring the enduring impact of fashions created by and for women, this book traces a historical and conceptual lineage across more than 70 female designers? from unidentified dressmakers in eighteenth-century France, to contemporary makers who are leading the direction of fashion today?all culled from the incredible permanent collection of The Costume Institute. Insightful essays that consider notions of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission reveal women's impact within the field of fashion, highlighting celebrated designers and forgotten histories alike. The publication includes fashion houses such as Mad Carpentier, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet, American makers like Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, along with contemporary designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, Simone Rocha, and Iris van Herpen. New photography, created especially for this volume, uses light, shadow, and reflection to connect the garments to the four themes of the essays, which situate the works within a larger social context, and a fold-out genealogical chart traces connections between the makers featured. This overdue look at women-led design will be essential reading for anyone interested in the history of fashion.
Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press
Exhibition Schedule:
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
(December 7, 2023-March 3, 2024)
An exploration of fashion designer Gaby Aghion's life, career, and legacy at the French fashion house Chloé.
As imagined by the company's founder, Gaby Aghion (1921-2014), the sophisticated, romantic, and glamorous designs of Chloé have captured the energy and aspirations of generations of women since Aghion designed her first collection in 1952. This sumptuously illustrated book centers Chloé and Aghion within the cultural arena and crystallizes a major transition in the postwar Parisian fashion industry, from haute couture to prêt-à-porter. Aghion defined Chloé as a brand of luxury ready-to-wear clothing combining high-end materials and savoir faire with light shapes for active women. Aghion, an Egyptian Jew in Paris, brought a fresh, outsider perspective to French fashion.
Seventy years of archival clothing from Chloé designers are reproduced here, many for the first time, along with sketches, advertisements, and photographs. Essays shed light on Aghion's life, the company's approach to fashion, and the ways in which it fostered young talents. The book celebrates Aghion's daring entrepreneurship and her legacy through the acclaimed designers who embodied and reinterpreted her original inspiration. Paulo Melim Andersson, Gabriela Hearst, Clare Waight Keller, Karl Lagerfeld, Hanna MacGibbon, Stella McCartney, Peter O'Brien, Phoebe Philo, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and Martine Sitbon offer recollections of their experiences working at the fashion house.
Published in association with the Jewish Museum, New York.
Exhibition Schedule:
Jewish Museum, New York (October 13, 2023-February 18, 2024).
Articulating eight decades of American style through the emotive language of clothing-from celebrated designers that established the modern legacy of sportswear to emerging creatives shaping the future of fashion in the United States This new presentation of American fashion features a revised vocabulary that emphasizes its expressive qualities. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion. The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by designers, from the pioneers who established the nation's style to the up-and-coming creatives shaping its future.
In America: A Lexicon of Fashion includes designs by Gilbert Adrian, Geoffrey Beene, Thom Browne, Bonnie Cashin, Willy Chavarria, Telfar Clemens, Dauphinette (Olivia Cheng), Oscar de la Renta, (Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim), Denim Tears (Tremaine Emory), Perry Ellis, Tom Ford, Rudi Gernreich, Halston, Elizabeth Hawes, Carolina Herrera, Conner Ives, Charles James, Donna Karan, KidSuper (Colm Dillane), Calvin Klein Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, LRS (Raul Solis), Vera Maxwell, Claire McCardell, Norman Norell, Heron Preston, Pyer Moss (Kerby Jean-Raymond), Christopher John Rogers, Collina Strada (Hillary Taymour), Diane von Furstenberg, Vera Wang, and many more.
Andy Warhol (1928-1987), un géant de l'art du XXe siècle, est connu de la plupart des gens pour ses images emblématiques de boîtes de soupe, de bouteilles de Coca-Cola et de Marilyn Monroe. Avant de connaître une ascension fulgurante au début des années 1960 en tant que superstar du Pop Art, Warhol était un artiste commercial très prospère à New York. Le regretté Matt Wrbican, ancien archiviste en chef du Warhol Museum de Pittsburgh, a dit un jour "il reste très peu d'histoires à raconter sur Warhol, mais les textiles en sont une". Cet ouvrage est le premier consacré aux créations textiles commerciales de cette figure majeure de l'histoire de l'art. Grâce à de nouvelles photographies époustouflantes, dont des images inédites de textiles nouvellement découverts, ce livre jette un nouvel éclairage sur un aspect important mais jusqu'ici peu documenté de l'oeuvre de Warhol. Avec plus de 30 textiles différents, des sundaes à la crème glacée aux clowns acrobatiques, Warhol : The Textiles offre un témoignage unique sur les débuts de l'un des plus grands artistes du vingtième siècle. Publié en association avec le Musée de la mode et du textile.
Experimental fashion has a dark side, a preoccupation with representations of death, trauma, alienation and decay. This seminal publication offers an unexpected discussion of cutting-edge fashion in the 1990s, exploring what its disturbing themes tell us about consumer culture and contemporary anxieties. Caroline Evans analyses the work of innovative designers, the images of fashion photographers and the spectacular fashion shows that developed in the final decade of the twentieth century to arrive at a new understanding of fashion's dark side and what it signifies.
Fashion at the Edge considers a range of ground- breaking fashion in unprecedented depth and detail, including the work of such designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Viktor & Rolf, and photographers such as Steven Meisel, Nick Knight and Juergen Teller.
Drawing on diverse perspectives from Marx to Walter Benjamin, Evans shows that fashion stands at the very centre of the contemporary, and that it voices some of Western culture's deepest concerns.
